How to build a perfect facechart skintone?
It is not easy to build a perfect facechart skintone. But luckily we have Liza’s chapter 4 in her Facechart book! I thank God for that, and whilst praying to him, I ask also for a large pile of creativity. No just kidding, but I feel quite excited about this. Those faces Liza makes all look so perfect! We earlier learned about which paper we needed and how to start a facechart, but now its time for the next step! Lets start!
Liza starts this chapter with a lesson Facial Features. Which comes in very handy because, for instance, I had never heard of a ‘philtrum’ before. And now I know what it means! You can find it on page 82 in the book.
Building a facechart skintone.
For my facechart I use one from Liza’s workbook. You defenitely need this workbook, by the way. It has different faces in it on high quality paper in straight forward and angled. So you can practice till eternity. The first thing Liza says is that we may NEVER EVER use a liquid or cream concealer and foundation. These products are designed for a real skin. Not for paper. So I choose the Mehron Celebré Pro-HD Pressed Powder Contour/Highlight palette. You can find it here. I like this palette because it has twelve different colours so I can make a lot of different facechart skintones with it.
The importance of light and shadow
How do you get a skintone that is perfect? Before we go to that answer, we first get a lesson in light and shadow from Liza. She says: “Everything is build up in light and shadow. But between direct light and shadow there are more degrees: direct light, indirect light, highlight, shadow, reflection light and gradient.” That’s important information if you want to make a facechart. You will find always lights and shadows on a face. If you understand that, it will be easier to make a realistic facechart.
Finally we are going to build a skin!!
It couldn’t go fast enough for me, but I really wanted to give attention to the other chapters of the book. But now we are really going to start!! Yeaj! Liza explains precisely how you have to put shadows on the facechart. We start with a base color. For this facechart I wanna make a dark skin girl, so I start with the color medium ‘MED3’ of the highlight and contour palette of Mehron. After I did the whole face I use ‘MED1’ and go all over the face to even the skintone. As you can see in the hyperlapse I use this small contour brush because it blends the powder perfectly in the paper. Then for contouring I use an old blending blush and the color Dark ‘DK3’ of the Mehron palette. To give the facecharts contour more defenition Liza’s tip is to use a darkbrown pencil and colour slightly beneath the contour. For the blush I use M.A.C. ‘Fever’ and ‘Pinch Me’. I start with the lightest one so I can build the color up if it is too light.
THE ULTIMATE TIP!!!
And then….FINALLY!! The ultimate tip I needed to know: How do you get this flawless skin? I soooo needed this one, because I couldn’t figure out why my facechartskins weren’t that flawless. Well the answer is as simple as it is smart: Use a cotton pad! With this cotton pad you go softly over your facechart and you rub it smooth. But be carefull doing this! There is now so much depth in my facechart! That never happend before! Yeaj!
So, What do you need for a perfect facechart skintone?
Patience…of course…you need to work precise and with patience, only then it will be perfect. What else do you need? Clean and dry brushes, a cotton pad, dark brown color pencil, Mehron Highlight and Contour pressed powder pallet, which has different colours so you can make different colours of skin, and a new facechart. Easy peasy. Well, not exactly, you have to give attention to your work. It is kinda mindfull. Zen.
In the same chapter there is also an explanation about how doing a facechart skintone in a more difficult way. A version 2. I don’t have the equipment for that at the moment, but when I have it, I will review that as well. Next time: Realize real eyes! Exciting!! For now: take care and stay healthy and safe.